KW Farms
Wapato, Washington

Page Last Updated: January 12, 2017

Frequently Asked Questions

FAQs Regarding Our Herd

If I purchase a goat kid from you, what will I receive?

With few exceptions, all of our kids are disbudded, CD&T vaccinated, and hoof trimmed before they leave for their new home. Wether kids are banded/castrated at about 7 weeks old. Apart from pet quality kids, all buck and doe kids are tattooed and registered with ADGA prior to leaving and their paperwork will go with them. Buck and doe kids are triple registerable with ADGA, AGS, and NDGA unless otherwise noted. We occasionally have pet quality doe kids sold without papers. Our paperwork is always kept up to date. AGS and NDGA applications are included at time of sale if requested. We used to provide the applications for AGS and NDGA, but nobody was registering the kids with either registry so we chose to provide only ADGA certificates at time of sale. If requested, we have no problem providing papers for all three registries. Wether kids do not come with applications for registration. Most are registerable, but unless you're planning on showing them, there isn't really any benefit to registering them. If you're wanting a show wether, we can provide an AGS application for registration. Just ask! Lastly, what you will receive is breeder support from us. We are always happy to help with any questions or concerns you may have, whether that be right after the purchase or five years down the road. 

Do you offer shipping?

Sorry, we do not offer any sort of shipping at this time. It's recommended that you personally pick up your goat at our farm in Wapato, WA 98951. Occasionally, we offer ground hauling around Washington state, but trips and dates vary depending on the situation. If we are making a trip somewhere and can haul, we will usually advertise on our sale page. We do warn if you are unable to pick up your goat and need to hire someone. Make sure to hire a professional, reputable, licensed and insured hauler. There are many people who have had problems with unprofessional ground haulers, us included, so be smart and cautious when hiring someone. We had an awful experience with one hauler which included our goat getting in a very bad car wreck on the way here. From now on, we pick up any purchased animals ourselves.

What do you feed your goats?

All of our goats are on free choice premium to supreme quality alfalfa hay with free choice, loose Sweetlix Meat Maker minerals. We rarely provide grain. Sometimes lactating does are given a daily grain ration after kidding and weanling kids will sometimes get grained as well. Other than that, most of our goats do just fine on alfalfa and minerals only. During spring and summer months, we do have some pasture weeds and browse available.

Are your goats registered?

Yes, all of our breeding stock is registered with ADGA. Some are dual or triple registered with AGS and NDGA as well. We use ADGA exclusively now. Our paperwork is always kept up to date and our buck and doe kids are triple registerable with ADGA, AGS, and NDGA unless noted as pet quality.

Do you test your goats for diseases?

No, we do not do any disease testing.

How much do your goats cost?

Non-registered wether kids start at $200. Registered doe and buck kids start at $400. We occasionally have pet quality, non-registered doelings available that will be priced lower. Pricing on adult stock varies.

Do any of your goats have horns?

With rare exceptions, all of our kids are disbudded within the first or second week of life. All of our breeding stock has been disbudded/dehorned, apart from a few polled goats. Polled means they are born naturally hornless. We've found that goats without horns are much safer to be around and easier to handle. If you are wanting a horned kid, we are sometimes okay with selling them, horns intact, just contact us to discuss!

Do you offer stud service?

I'm sorry, no we do not. 

FAQs About Nigerian Dwarf Goats In General

The information below is based on our personal opinion, experience, and research.

Why should I choose a Nigerian Dwarf Goat?

We chose this beautiful breed for many different reasons. We loved the small size which makes them much easier to handle compared to a standard size goat. They also take up less space, eat less, require smaller dosages of dewormer, medication, etc. Their smaller size makes them a great choice for kids as well. We also chose the Nigerians for their milk production and high butterfat content. They have a very creamy milk and can produce a lot of it, especially for their small size. Their milk can be used for quite a few different things including soaps an cheese. One other thing that attracted us to Nigerians was their fun colors. This breed comes in any color. There are no restrictions. We have been blessed to have pretty much every color of the rainbow here in our herd. It's always an exciting time when kids arrive because you never quite know what you'll get.

What is the difference between a Nigerian Dwarf and a Pygmy?

Nigerians are a dairy breed; Pygmies are a meat breed. Besides their size, they are actually very different breeds. Pygmies are a short, stocky, thick goat. They have heavy, thick bone. Nigerians are more proportioned to their height. They are more refined and elegant in appearance. Pygmies are not usually bred with udder quality in mind, as where udders and production are very important with the Nigerian breed. Pygmies come in only a handful of different colors; Nigerians come in any color. Both breeds are about the same size. 

Do I have to milk my Nigerian Dwarf doe?

Nope. Despite being a dairy goat, a doe in milk does not actually have to be milked. With few exceptions, does will not produce milk without being bred to a buck. If you do choose to breed your doe, she will come in milk before kidding. Upon kidding, you can let her nurse and raise her kids. Once the kids are old enough to wean and separate from the doe, she will will gradually dry up on her own. 

Which sex makes the best pet? Bucks, does, or wethers?

If you're wanting pet goats, we always recommend does or wethers (neutered males), but overall, we lean toward wethers if you strictly want a pet. Never get a buck as a pet. This website has a great explanation as to why you wouldn't want a buck: Does and wethers can make wonderful pets! The only downside to choosing a doe vs. a wether would be that does cycle every 21 days. Strong heats in the fall and winter months and weak to non-existent in the summer months. Their heat cycle usually lasts 1-2 days, but in that time, they can be flirty with their goat companions and can also become noisier than usual. During spring and summer months, you may not notice these heats at all, but during fall and winter months, it's usually easy to tell. In our experience, as far as personalities go, it really comes down to the individual goat. Wethers overall might be a little bit goofier and more laid back compared to does, but each goat is definitely an individual!

Is it okay to have only one goat?

No. They really need at least one other goat companion to be fully happy. Goats are very social animals and need interaction with other goats. With very rare exceptions, a lone goat will be unhappy, lonely, and depressed. Other species such as dogs, horses, chickens, and even sheep just can't take the place of another goat. Other species speak a totally different language. Goats in pairs or trios do great together.

Can does and wethers be kept together?

They sure can! There usually is no problem keeping them together although a wether may take notice when a doe is in heat and act a little bit like a buck. He may try to mount the doe or flirt with her, but generally there is no harm in this. Even does will do this occasionally. 

How long do Nigerian Dwarf Goats live?

They can live up to 12-15 years, sometimes longer if well cared for.

How often should Nigerian Dwarf hooves be trimmed?

You may get a wide range of answers to this question, depending on who you ask. Hoof growth is dependent on the goat's genetics, health, nutrition, and environment. We trim hooves about every 3 months. Some herds may need to trim hooves more regularly, others could maybe even go a bit longer. Some goats have slower or faster growing hooves than their herd mates and may need to be done sooner or later than the others. If your goats are on soft ground and not able to naturally wear their hooves down at all, then you'd probably trim sooner than someone with a herd living on sandy or rocky soil where the goats wear their hooves down somewhat naturally. It does vary a bit.

There are several different goat registries/associations. Which one should I use?

ADGA is our association of choice. They are the largest dairy goat registry and, in our opinion, provide the most member benefits, programs, and have the best website and online database for pedigrees and genetics research. ADGA also offers the most shows throughout the country and in our area. Actually, with very few exceptions, there are no AGS or NDGA shows in the Pacific Northwest. That said, all of our non-pet quality buck and doe kids are triple registerable with ADGA, AGS, and NDGA should you find the need to dual or triple register. 

What kind of fencing do these goats require?

You may have heard that goats are escape artists and this can definitely be true. However, with proper fencing and care, attempted or successful escapes should be very minimal. What's worked best for us is wood posts with braced and concreted railroad ties in the corners. Five foot tall, max tight woven wire, 2x4" squares. They usually call it horse no climb wire. The small squares prevent goats from getting their heads through and the five foot height prevents them from jumping out, but most importantly will keep most predators from getting in. Stretch the fence very tight before stapling it to the posts. Get it as low to the ground as possible as well. Wood posts can be expensive. If you want to try t-posts, you can, but we have not had very good luck with them. Just not sturdy enough. If you want to secure your fence further, you can add electric to top and bottom with extended insulators. We have only had a couple goats over the years figure out how to get out and they both were bucks in rutt. Never had a problem with does or wethers escaping this at all. Generally, a happy goat won't try to escape so make sure to keep them well fed and watered, provide minerals, and shelter. Goat toys, like a spool or climbing rocks in their pen can also keep them happy and entertained. 

I'm new to goats. What supplies should I keep on hand?

Here is a list of some things we always have on hand. Don't let this list scare you. Most of these things not very expensive and while you may not "need" some of these things, you'll be happy you had them if the need arises.

-Hoof Trimmers (Every goat owner's "must have." We've had good luck with Shear Magic Hoof Trimmer.)

-Dewormers (Ivomec Plus is one of our go to dewormers.)

-Power Punch or Nutridrench (Gives your goats a boost if ever needed, especially in times of stress.)

-Selenium (Goats are prone to selenium deficiency. We always keep Goat Selenium & Vit E Gel on hand. You can also get Bo-Se injectable from a vet.)

-Copper (Goats are also prone to copper deficiency. We always keep Copasure on hand and bolus our herd ever 6-12 months.)

-Probiotics (We always keep Probios on hand. Especially beneficial to give after a goat has been treated with antibiotics.)

-Vitamins (Good to have on hand for times of stress or when your goats could use an extra boost. We use Agrilabs Vitamins & Electrolytes PLUS.

-Penicillin (We always keep injectable Penicillin on hand. Not that goats get sick often, but just in case you need antibiotics ASAP or can't make it to a vet!)

-Needles & Syringes (We get the Jeffers brand in all different sizes. The syringes come in handy for injections AND drenches.)

We often purchase our supplies from 

We will add more to this list as we think of things.